Paddling in the Douglas Channel
Kayaking in the Douglas Channel has given my husband and I many hours of enjoyment. There are so many interesting places to stop and things to see. Most of our kayaking takes place in the northerly end of the Channel, of course, as the boat ramp at Alcan Beach is where we normally launch. Our favourite kayaking destinations are North Cove, Beese Cove and Emsley Cove along the west side and Wathlsto Creek around to Gobeil Bay after launching at Kitamaat Village on the east side. The cove at the north point of Coste Island is also a good destination for a day trip given a good day.
We have a fair bit of kayaking experience but neither of us are whitewater kayakers or surf kayakers. Most of our kayaking in this area is as day trips though in June, 2007 we made a memorable six day trip that started at the Alcan Beach boat launch. Our nights were spent at Jesse Falls, Drumlummon Bay and Loretta Island, where we were able to make use of the Haisla cabins, after getting permission from the Kitamaat Village Council. We spent one night at Weewanie Cove and one night at the north point of Coste Island. We felt fortunate that the rain stopped the same day we ran out of cabins.
The Channel has much to offer the experienced kayaker, including many challenges. Anyone heading out on the water for even a few hours needs to be prepared for these challenges. Much is written in all kayak books about weather and current. Weather in our area can change quickly and winds can whip up thundering whitecaps in what seems like a few moments. On several occasions we’ve made a calm morning trip into Emsley Cove for a midday picnic and some beach combing during which time the wind picks up so that we battle following seas with whitecaps all the way home. It’s fun and exciting but requires some kayaking experience, strength and a good deal of stamina. Waves come to shore at an angle which causes problems along cliff sides, like the rock face just north of Bish Creek, as the waves ricochet off the cliff face to hit you from a second angle and causing very confused seas. Wind channeled up Devastation Channel can cause difficult seas in the open area where Devastation Channel meets Douglas Channel.
On our 6 day trip it was raining for most of the first three days so, of course, things get wet. Exposure is a real concern in this area. Being able to use the Haisla cabins enabled us to dry our wetsuits and paddling jackets so we could at least start the next day warm and dry. Even so, after a challenging paddle against the current up Sue Channel, we stopped at a beach on Hawksbury Island. It was cold in spite of the wet suit, paddling jacket, gloves and pogies, neoprene boots and a hat. I made good use of my reflective emergency blanket that afternoon before we continued on to Loretta Island and a fire in the woodstove.
I haven’t noticed that ocean currents present much of a problem in the more northerly part of the Channel. In some places the currents are strong and steady, as along the west side of Maitland Island, up Sue Channel and through Amos Passage. We have not kayaked south of Grant Point so I can’t comment of currents beyond those points. A steady current can be a boon when it’s going your way but if you have to paddle against it for a few hours, as we did in Sue Channel, it can be tiring and you need to know you have the stamina required before making the trip.
Currents other than ocean currents can be problematical. I’m thinking especially of currents caused by outfall water, such as at Jesse Falls and Foch Lagoon. The outfall causes rough and ‘skittery’ water for a long ways from the actual outfall. In order to beach at Jesse Falls, this outfall has to be crossed. It’s a little nervewracking as your kayak doesn’t behave the way you’re used to. The landing and launching at Jesse Falls is tricky to begin with as there’s no beach. Add the challenge of the outfall water and you have to pick your landing and launching spots carefully. In fact, the landing at Jesse can be so difficult that it might be better to carry on around the point to Echo Bay, though it makes a long day of kayaking even longer. More ‘interesting’ yet is the outfall from Foch Lagoon, depending on the tide. The outfall curls around the north side of the bay and may contain whirlpools and eddies at lower tides. Once across, it’s easy paddling to the beach.
You have to be aware that in the Channel there aren’t that many places to beach a kayak. Most of the coastline is sheer rock face or steeply tumbled boulders. There are a few beaches where landing is mostly fine at mid to high tides but at lower tides can show a disconcerting number of large boulders or sticky mudflats. Some of these beaches can totally disappear at higher tides. Most of these beaches have no clearing above them for purposes of camping. These areas are generally too steep.
Because the water at this end of the Channel is less salty than the open ocean it’s a perfect medium for the very slippery algae that grows on all the rocks. Making your way across this kind of beach is tricky at the best of times but really difficult while also trying to transport a kayak with gear. One can paddle for several hours before coming to a suitable landing spot. When kayaking from Jesse Falls to Drumlummon Bay outside Foch Lagoon, we found put-out spots at Echo Bay and Ashton Point only. It was much the same on our paddle down the west side of Maitland Island and up most of Sue Channel, though there is a decent beach by Grant Point on the southwest tip of Maitland. There are places to land along Sue Channel but most are pretty rough. These landing spots are generally at least a few hours paddle apart.
Kayakers mainly hold fairly close to shore but do have to cross channels now and then. Because of the industry in the area, the Channel has a fair number of large ships in it. Do not cross the shipping lines if you see a ship heading towards you from either direction. They travel much faster than a kayak can and it’s better to wait until the ship has gone by before attempting to cross. Close to shore, other boaters present no problem as they’re usually putting along while the people on board take advantage of the wonderful fishing in this area. Out further from shore can be a different story as kayaks are small and often hard to see from a small pleasure boat, especially if it’s slightly rough on the water. Using extreme caution when making a crossing is always prudent.
Because of the lack of beaches, those that are available are often used by wildlife, especially bears, to get to the ocean. Keep a sharp eye out before landing anywhere. Mostly, bears will just run away but you can never guarantee that.
Kayakers who venture out into the Douglas Channel are rewarded with stunning scenery, a few wonderful beaches, incredible rock formations, and the chance to see some wildlife of all sorts, including whales, on occasion. As with anything, approaching the sport with the proper equipment and a good dollop of common sense will see you enjoying yourself immensely. We never leave on a kayaking trip of any duration without specific equipment, including a first aid kit that also contains a basic kayak repair kits (extra rudder cables, silicon sealer and duct tape) and all the Coast Guard mandated safety equipment required for every boat. We also carry a chart of the area, a gps, and a small marine radio. Lately, we’ve also been carrying our SPOT (http://www.findmespot.ca/en/ ), especially on longer trips. Even in the heat of summer, we take our warm pants and jackets and extra food, ‘just in case’. Our deck bags each always have an emergency blanket and some flares. Rain gear is a given in this climate as is some way of making a small and safe fire on the beach for the rare occasion you might need one to get warm, and lightweight tarps for making a quick shelter. Letting someone know where you’re planning to go and when you plan to be home is a great idea too. Please let them know when you do get home. Recognize that the water in the Channel is cold and dress for immersion. Hopefully, you will never need any of your emergency equipment but you should have it all on every trip.
Less experienced kayaks can get practice by kayaking in the area just off Alcan Beach through to Moon Bay, being watchful of other boating, of course. Another alternative is to take your kayak out to Lakelse Lake for a day of paddling where launching is easy from the park at Furlong Bay.
